By Doctor Sabine Zenker
The author’s treatment concept for facial skin regeneration is an indication-specific approach. Therapeutic options for this Indication-Specific Face Concept are based on easy-to-perform, non- or minimally-invasive procedures including cosmeceuticals, prescription drugs, mesotherapy and micro-needling.
Cosmeceuticals and topical prescription drugs
Cosmeceuticals refer to products that are a mix of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. They use biological ingredients purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits. Those creams, ointments and lotions are designed to enhance the way the skin functions and to reduce the overall appearance of aging. Cosmeceuticals are not tested or approved as drugs, but rather appear in the consumer area. BB Creams are “magical” formulas that provide an all-in-one facial cosmetic product. They are moisturizer, primer, foundation, cover and sunblock at the same time and prevent clinical signs of photoaging. A BB cream for example can contain working agents like hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid (HA) in a low concentration to improve the skin acid’s viscoelastic properties; special plant extracts to stimulate the natural synthesis of hyaluronic acid by triggering hyaluronan synthase and plant stem cells to enhance skin regeneration, density and firmness. Additionally those creams can contain matrikines, small-sequence amino-acid chains to stimulate the synthesis of new collagen and extracellular matrix synthesis and UV filters against UVB and UVA rays. Topical medication is applied directly to the skin to treat the affected area. Two common anti-aging actives are retinoic acid and hydroquinone. The author advocates a personal skincare plan of cosmeceuticals and prescribes individual combinations of drugs with close-meshed follow-up visits to the doctor.
Mesotherapy
Mesotherapy involves multiple and micro-dosed injections of bioactive agents designed to maximize hydration and reconstruct an optimal physiological environment for fibroblasts. HA stabilized by glycerol increases its viscosity, cohesion and longevity and is an excellent antioxidant and skin moisturizer.
Micro-needling
Micro-needling works through controlled mechanical stimulation. Consecutive inflammation leads to the gene expression of numerous growth factors, collagen I and glycosaminoglycan. For example, TFG-β3 is regulated beyond the initial phase to provide scarless healing and a normal collagen structure. Due to the low risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, micro-needling can be used for all patients regardless of their skin type and color. It ensures that the molecules applied to the treated area penetrate deeply after the needling procedure. To regulate pigmentary changes, the author uses working agents such as Kojic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Hydroquinone and Retinoic Acid.
The Indication-Specific Face Concept seems to be ideal for rejuvenating skin in an effective and targeted way. Common indications such as dull skin can be regenerated and pigmentary changes can be regulated. This indication-specific approach is based on combining easy-to-perform and non-invasive treatments.
By Doctor Sabine Zenker
Sabine Zenker is specialized in dermatology and dermatological surgery. She is an expert and trainer for non- and micro-invasive procedures in the field of aesthetic dermatology, an active member of scientific boards of leading conferences, conducts clinical trials, publishes articles and is a member of national and international dermatological associations.
