Dr Noël Schartz
Clear + Brilliant® is a non-ablative fractional laser designed to stimulate cell renewal in the skin thanks to two different wavelengths. The 1927 nm wavelength, which is marketed under the name Permea®, targets the superficial layers in order to optimise the skin’s permeability and the absorption of the topical products used. The platform is equipped with a patented Intelligent Optical Tracking® system, which is designed to monitor the laser beam’s movement in real time and ensure that the impacts are evenly distributed across the treatment zone.
Anti-Age Magazine: What indications do you treat using the Clear + Brilliant® laser?
Dr. Noël Schartz: It is primarily used to improve the overall skin quality, with the much sought-after “glow” being the most visible result. Clear + Brilliant® allows us to even out the complexion, smooth the skin texture, improve its radiance and its overall appearance. It also tackles any superficial pigmentary dyschromia, tightens any dilated pores and helps to reduce the appearance of superficial scars, especially those caused by acne. It offers a gradual and even improvement to the skin, without affecting the skin’s integrity.
AAM: Could you tell us about the Permea® handpiece, with its 1927 nm wavelength?
Dr. N.S.: Clear + Brilliant® system has two different handpieces: the Original® with a 1440 nm wavelength and the Permea® with a 1927 nm wavelength. The latter generates fractional thermocoagulation zones in the deep epidermal layer, creating micro-channels to a depth of 170 micrometres. This significantly increases the skin’s permeability, which potentiates the action of the actives that are applied following the treatment. The products used must be medically safe, correctly formulated and applied in sanitised (but not necessarily sterile) conditions. The specific feature of the Permea® system is that it creates coagulation points using heat, which causes less serous fluid to leak out and therefore helps the actives to penetrate more efficiently, increasing skin penetration by up to 17 times, unlike microneedling, whose cold mechanical stimulation often leads to exudate, which means that the products are absorbed less efficiently.
AAM: What skincare actives are used with this handpiece?
Dr. N.S.:The choice of which actives to use should, above all, respect strict tolerance and formulation criteria. It is essential that we avoid any molecules that might be irritant or sensitising, such as retinoids, AHAs or BHA, as well as any alcoholic formulations. In practice, we favour antioxidant, repairing or depigmenting actives, or those that boost cellular longevity, and whose molecular size and galenic are compatible with epidermal diffusion. In my practice, I often combine vitamin C, ferulic acid, niacinamide and tranexamic acid, particularly for indications that involve dyschromia, melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. For skin aging, I also use antioxidants, peptides and, more recently, polydeoxyribonucleotide, to support the skin’s repair and regeneration mechanisms.
AAM: Is it a choice treatment for combined therapies?
Dr. N.S.: Absolutely. No one treatment, even surgery, can correct the skin quality for the long term. The best results are achieved by combining complementary approaches that target the different layers of tissue. Clear + Brilliant® acts on the epidermal and dermo-epidermal layers, improving the skin’s texture, evenness and radiance, which makes it an excellent complement to injectable treatments. It can be combined with collagen inducers, hyaluronic acid or botulinum toxin. This combined approach improves patient satisfaction, primarily thanks to its rapidly visible results at the surface. When collagen inducers are injected deeply, cellular cross-talk can indirectly improve the skin’s appearance, but the epidermal action of the Clear + Brilliant® is vital for optimising the overall results. A protocol combining hyaluronic acid injections with a Clear + Brilliant® treatment can be carried out in a single session. However, when botulinum toxin is used, I recommend spacing the sessions out by at least two weeks, due to the microvascular modifications caused.
AAM: What are the effects achieved?
Dr. N.S.: The protocol generally involves a primary treatment plan of four to six sessions, carried out two to four weeks apart, followed by one or two top-up sessions every six to twelve months, depending on the patient’s age, lifestyle and expectations. After four to six sessions, we can see a significant improvement to the skin texture, a more even complexion and fewer fine lines, coupled with a visible radiance boost. The results last several months, potentially more if they are supported by a suitable skincare routine and top-up sessions. In my practice, Clear + Brilliant® is a useful alternative to peels and microneedling, which I have gradually replaced with this technology. It offers reliable results in terms of glow and skin quality, with better tolerance, fewer side effects and more comfort. It is a gentler, preventative version of the standard non-ablative fractional lasers such as Fraxel®.
The Clear + Brilliant® is today a key tool for improving the skin quality, combining prevention, regeneration and patient comfort.
Dr Noël Schartz
Dr Noël Schartz is a dermatologist and immunologist in Paris. A former clinic head at Saint-Louis hospital, he has also led research projects at the Institut Pasteur and Gustave Roussy. Founder of the Centre Iéna21, he runs a gold-standard establishment dedicated to medical and surgical dermatology, aesthetic dermatology and lasers. He also works with the Centre Laser International de la Peau
de Paris (CLIPP).
More: docteur-schartz.org
