These more stable, more powerful antioxidants were developed at Alphascience by Alfred Marchal, a doctor in organic chemistry.
Alfred Marchal is internationally recognised for his innovations, which have made their mark in aesthetic medicine. A European pioneer in stabilising vitamin C in its free and active form, he has also filed several patents, namely for vitamin C and vitamin K. Alfred Marchal, co-founder of Alphascience alongside Julien Revol, who has held positions at L’Oréal and Teoxane, unveils his latest innovations.
ANTI-AGE Magazine: Why are antioxidants essential in aesthetic medicine?
Alfred Marchal: Antioxidants are the foundation for any anti-aging strategy because oxidative stress is the primary factor that speeds up skin aging, and aesthetic procedures are impacted by the stress they generate in the skin. At Alphascience, I have developed a new generation of antioxidants, a scientific innovation that allows us to provide a targeted response to every skin issue, while ensuring the actives’ stability and efficacy.
AAM: What are the limitations of standard antioxidants and how has your technology overcome them?
A.M.: Vitamin C is a gold-standard antioxidant, but it is fragile and difficult to stabilise, particularly in warm environments and in the skin. This is why I developed the NextGen® technology, which combines free vitamin C, tannic acid and other antioxidants in patented formulations.
This approach relies on an advanced mechanism for modulating the ionisation and transfer of electrons, which acts like a protective shield in the formula. It neutralises free radicals (ROS) before they can damage the skin cells and stabilises the vitamin C to ensure optimal efficacy.
I have demonstrated that it remains active in the skin for up to 10 hours and stable in its packaging for 3 months at 40°C (104°F), even after opening. This prolonged stability marks a significant breakthrough in cosmetic formulation.
AAM: Where do you get your inspiration for your innovations?
A.M.: Above all, I get my inspiration from nature, which, over millions of years of evolution, has developed extremely sophisticated protection and repair strategies.
Plants that are exposed to intense stress with sunshine, humidity and temperature changes have developed specific molecules to defend themselves against this stress. Let’s take sequoias, for example. These trees can live for several thousands of years and their bark is extremely rich in tannic acid, which enables them to resist external aggressions. I analyse these natural mechanisms and select the most powerful actives to then include them in Alphascience’s formulas.
AAM: How do the Alphascience serums respond to the specific requirements of each skin type?
A.M.: Every skin has its own unique requirements, which is why it is essential to adopt a targeted approach. At Alphascience, I have developed serums enriched with specific actives, formulated to respond to precise indications. In the TANNIC [CF] SERUM, I combined vitamin C with stabilised tannic acid for an enhanced anti-aging action to combat the skin’s vascular fragility. With MELA BRIGHT [C+], our serum for treating melasma, for the first time I managed to stabilise 3% cysteamine with other antioxidants such as ascorbic acid and phytic acid. This patented combination goes perfectly with medical aesthetic procedures.
AAM: Why should we include Alphascience’s antioxidants in aesthetic protocols?
A.M.: Every time you perform a non-invasive aesthetic procedure on the skin, it generates oxidative stress, which can lead to therapeutic failure (reappearance of pigmentation, erythema) and can weaken the skin. By neutralising the free radicals and strengthening the skin’s defences, suitable antioxidants are essential for preparing the skin and optimising the results of dermatological and aesthetic procedures.
This is unique: our antioxidant serums are formulated without preservatives or fragrances, and we use a minimum number of ingredients for outstanding skin tolerance in association with aesthetic procedures.
AAM: In practice, how can these antioxidants be combined with procedures?
A.M.: First of all, it is important to prepare the skin properly, so I recommend using them every morning for 2 to 3 weeks before the procedure to impregnate the skin and boost its defence mechanisms, and you should always moisturise the skin well. The skin will then be better able to resist the stress caused by the procedure. You can also apply them after the procedure, as long as the skin is no longer inflamed, from the morning after or 2 to 3 days afterwards, depending on the treatment’s intensity. The use of this protocol helps improve results and reduce therapeutic failure, such as pigment rebound.
AAM: What projects are you currently developing to treat skin aging?
A.M.: I’m currently working on two things. I’ve patented the stabilisation of Epigallocatechin Gallate, a catechin from green tea, in a high concentration in a completely natural formula. This product has extremely useful properties for protecting the DNA following UV exposure, which we are currently testing ex-vivo. For me, this will be a major asset in sun protection with regard to treating skin aging. I am also working on cell regeneration to optimise the penetration of polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRN), whether used by professionals or for daily use, as this is an excellent complement to the antioxidants’ action.
AAM: Is it still important to you that your products are manufactured in France?
A.M.: Yes, absolutely. We manufacture our products in a factory in Grasse natural park, a symbolic location that shows our commitment to respecting the environment. France sets an example for the rest of the world, particularly with regard to its unique expertise. We strive to uphold this expertise while constantly innovating to offer high-tech products. Every product is carefully designed to respect the skin and guarantee its safety, by preserving its equilibrium and health.
By constantly pushing the boundaries of innovation, we proudly fly the flag for French manufacturing in over 30 countries worldwide. This allows our products to achieve real international success, boosting France’s image as a shining example of excellence and creativity.
