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Dark circles are not just a melanin story: scientific breakthrough from DermEden Laboratories

  • 9th October 2026
  • Thierry PIOLATTO

A breakthrough international study reveals the critical role of vascular inflammation in eye contour care.

Ultra-thin skin and periorbital erythema: dark circles are a major aesthetic challenge. An international multicenter study on 75 patients revolutionizes their management.

Pigmented dark circles are among the most common reasons for consultation in aesthetic medicine, yet no absolute gold-standard treatment has emerged until now. Lasers, traditional peels, and fillers quickly reach their limits on an extremely fragile skin area (0.5 mm thick) that is highly vascularized, exposing patients to the dreaded risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

To address this therapeutic deadlock, DermEden Laboratories spearheaded a rigorous multicenter clinical study involving 75 patients across 3 continents (Japan, Malaysia, Mexico, Spain) under the direction of Dr Nicolas Bachot and Dr Barbara Dalbos, an approach also praised by leading clinical experts such as Dr Korb, who highlights the efficacy and remarkable ease of implementation of this protocol in clinical practice.

Inflammation: The Missing Link

The major insight from this study is the discovery that 100% of patients presented with a baseline periorbital erythema strongly correlated with their pigmentation level. Dark circles are thus as much an inflammatory and vascular phenomenon as they are melanotic. Consequently, inhibiting tyrosinase alone addresses only half the problem.

An Innovative Combined Protocol

The study evaluated the synergistic combination of Tranexamic Acid (TXA 5%), which blocks the plasmin pathway and its inflammatory/vascular mediators, and Niacinamide (10%), which inhibits melanosome transfer.

As detailed in clinical practice, the protocol is structured as follows:

  1. In-clinic: 3 sessions spaced 4 weeks apart combining the LIGHT D.PEEL depigmenting peel (8.5% Lactic Acid + 5% TXA + 2% Ferulic Acid) and epidermal microneedling (0.3 to 0.7 mm) infusing the MELAFLASH TXA 5% + NIA 10% sterile concentrate.
  2. At home: Twice-daily application of the TXA 5% anti-dark spot concentrate combined with SPF 50 sun protection for 5 months.

Remarkable Clinical Results

Instrumental measurements using a Cortex DSM-4 colorimeter confirmed a global reduction in periorbital hyperpigmentation (POH) of -60% compared to the control zone, with peaks reaching -76% in Japan, alongside a -69% reduction in erythema (POE). Microneedling acts as a powerful clinical accelerator (-52% pigmentation during the professional phase alone), while the home protocol consolidates results and prevents any rebound effect.

No cases of PIH or rebound effect were reported, regardless of phototype, confirming excellent tolerance and an overall patient satisfaction rate of up to 93%.

Backed by a vast international study, the DermEden protocol combining TXA and Niacinamide finally delivers a safe, non-rebound scientific solution to treat dark circles.

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